Skip to content
DonePages field notes

Field guide

How to Take Before-and-After Photos That Sell Your Work (Contractor Field Guide)

A field guide to before-and-after photos that actually sell jobs: where to stand, what light to shoot in, phone settings, a shot list by trade, and the mistakes that make good work look bad.

By DonePages editorial team 11 minute read
Freshly cleaned driveway photographed after a professional pressure-washing project

Quick answer

Take the before photo from a spot you can find again, before anything is moved, then take the after photo from exactly the same spot, height and zoom once the site is clean. Shoot in soft, even light with the phone held level, keep the lens clean, and never edit the work itself. A good set is one wide shot, one mid shot and two or three close-ups.

The only rule that really matters

A before-and-after pair only works if both photos are taken from the same spot, at the same height, with the same zoom.

Homeowners compare the two photos in a second. If the angle changes, their brain has to work out what they're looking at, and the "wow" disappears. Worse, a changed angle can look like you're hiding something. A matched pair from the same corner of the driveway is more convincing than two beautiful photos taken from different places.

Everything else in this guide is about making that one rule easy to follow on a real job site, with a crew that has better things to do than photography.

Take the before photo first, before anything moves

The before photo has to show the problem as the customer lived with it, before tarps, tools, drop cloths or demolition.

This is where most photo sets fail. The crew pulls up, starts unloading, and by the time someone remembers the photos, there are ladders against the house and the old deck boards are already in a pile. The before shot is gone forever.

Make it the very first thing that happens on arrival:

  1. 1Park out of the shot if you can
  2. 2Walk to your standard spots (more on those below) and shoot the wide, mid and close-ups
  3. 3Photograph the specific problems the customer mentioned: the stain, the rot, the sag, the crack
  4. 4Only then start unloading

It takes about two minutes. On a two-day job, those two minutes produce the only photos you'll use in marketing.

Photograph the problem, not just the area

A wide shot of a house doesn't show why the job was needed. Get close on the evidence: black streaks of algae on shingles, peeling paint on a fascia board, a cracked paver, standing water in a low spot of the lawn. These close-ups become the most persuasive part of your project page, because a future customer with the same problem recognizes it instantly.

Mark your spot so the after photo matches

Pick a spot you can find again without thinking: a corner of the driveway, a fence post, a doorway, or a mark on the sidewalk.

Before you take the before photo, notice exactly where you're standing and how high you're holding the phone. Some crews use simple habits:

  • Stand at the same corner of the property every time (for example, the street-side corner of the driveway)
  • Hold the phone at chest height, not above your head and not at your waist
  • Line up a fixed object at the edge of the frame, like the corner of the garage or a mailbox
  • Use 1x zoom on the main camera, never the ultra-wide or digital zoom
  • On bigger jobs, drop a small chalk mark or a flag where you stood

Then before you leave on the last day, go back to the same spot. Many phone camera apps show a grid; turn it on so you can line up the roofline or the edge of the driveway with the same grid line in both photos.

Light: when to shoot and when to wait

Soft, even light makes work look like it really looks. Harsh midday sun and deep shadows make even great work look patchy.

You can't always choose the time, but you can often choose the side of the house or wait 20 minutes.

LightResultWhat to do
Overcast dayEven, soft, true colorsBest for most exterior work. Shoot freely.
Early morning or late afternoonWarm and flattering, longer shadowsGreat for curb appeal shots. Avoid shooting straight into the sun.
Midday sunHarsh shadows, blown-out whitesMove to the shaded side, or wait for a cloud.
Sun directly behind the houseDark house, bright skyChange angle or come back. Don't fight it.
Interior with mixed lightsOrange and blue patchesTurn off yellow lamps, open blinds, use daylight.

Try to shoot the before and the after in similar light. A before on a grey morning and an after in golden evening sun looks staged, even if it isn't, and a skeptical homeowner will assume the worst.

Pressure washing and roofing: watch for wet surfaces

Wet concrete and wet shingles look darker. If you shoot the after while the surface is still drying, the result looks patchy and less impressive than it will an hour later. Where you can, let it dry or come back for the final photo. It's one of the easiest ways to make cleaning work look as good as it actually is.

Clean the frame before the final photo

The after photo is the finished product. Anything in the frame that isn't the work distracts from it.

Before the final shot, do a quick sweep:

  • Ladders, tools, buckets, hoses and extension cords out of view
  • Drop cloths and tarps removed
  • Trash bags and debris gone
  • Your truck and trailer out of the frame
  • Garage door closed or fully open, not halfway
  • Garden hoses coiled, bins put away if the customer is happy for you to move them

This is also good customer service. The homeowner sees you leaving the place tidier than you found it, which is exactly when you'll ask for a review. Our guide on how to ask customers for reviews covers that moment.

Phone settings that make a real difference

Modern phones take excellent photos if you avoid a few default habits.

You don't need a camera. You need a clean lens and a few settings:

  1. 1Wipe the lens. Phones live in pockets and the lens gets greasy. A smudge makes everything hazy. Use your shirt. Every time.
  2. 2Use the main camera at 1x. Ultra-wide lenses bend straight lines, which makes rooflines and walls look curved. Digital zoom makes photos grainy.
  3. 3Turn on the grid. It helps you keep horizontal lines level and match the before and after.
  4. 4Hold the phone level. Tilting the phone up at a two-storey house makes the walls lean inward. Step back instead of tilting.
  5. 5Tap to focus on the work, then slide the exposure down slightly if the sky or white siding looks washed out.
  6. 6Skip portrait mode and filters. They change what the work looks like.
  7. 7Shoot landscape for wide shots, portrait for social. Take both of the best angle if you post to Instagram or Facebook stories.

If your phone has a "high efficiency" setting that saves photos as HEIC, that's fine for your records, but make sure the tools you upload to accept it or convert it to JPG. Google Business Profile, for example, accepts JPG and PNG.

The shot list: what a complete set looks like

Five to eight photos per job is enough. Forty near-identical shots just make it harder to find the good ones.

A complete set for most jobs:

  • Wide before: the whole area from your standard spot
  • Mid before: the main problem area, closer
  • Close-up before: one or two shots of the actual damage or problem
  • During (optional): one photo showing the work or a hidden step, like new underlayment or the prep sanding
  • Wide after: same spot, height and zoom as the wide before
  • Mid after: same as the mid before
  • Close-up after: the detail that shows quality

Trade-specific shots that sell

TradeShots customers find convincing
Pressure washingHalf-cleaned surface showing the line between dirty and clean; driveway from the street
RoofingTear-off showing rotten decking; new flashing around chimney and vents; the ridge line from the street
PaintingPrep: scraped and primed trim; clean cut lines at windows; the whole elevation after
LandscapingSame view at install and again weeks later once plants fill in; clean bed edges
Decks and fencesOld rot close-up; new post footings; the finished deck from the yard
RemodelingThe same corner of the room before and after; one close-up of tile or trim work

The "half-cleaned" shot for pressure washing and the "hidden work" shot for roofing are worth their own mention. They show the one thing a homeowner can't see from the finished result: how bad it was, or how well it was done underneath.

Editing: fix the photo, never the work

Straighten, crop and correct brightness. Never change what the job looks like.

It's fine to:

  • Straighten a crooked horizon
  • Crop out a neighbor's car or bins
  • Adjust overall brightness if the photo is too dark
  • Blur house numbers, license plates and people's faces for privacy

It's not fine to:

  • Brighten or saturate the "after" more than the "before" to exaggerate the difference
  • Remove stains, cracks or defects that are still there
  • Swap in a different sky or a greener lawn
  • Use a photo from a different job and call it this one

Beyond being dishonest, edited "after" photos backfire. A homeowner who hires you based on an exaggerated photo and gets a normal result will say so in their review. Google's own photo guidelines for Business Profiles also ask for photos without significant alterations or excessive filters.

Protect the customer's privacy

Before a photo goes online, check it for anything that identifies the customer or their home without permission.

Look for house numbers, license plates, mail, kids' names on bikes, family photos inside, and faces. Crop or blur them. Ask the customer before posting an interior photo, and respect a no.

Many phones also store the exact GPS location of where each photo was taken inside the file. Most social networks strip that data when you upload, but a raw photo file sent to a website or emailed as an attachment can carry it. If your photos go on your own website, make sure your tools remove location data or turn off location tagging in the camera settings for work photos.

Use the photos on the web the right way

A great photo helps you in Google only if it's on a relevant page with useful text around it.

Google's image guidance recommends descriptive file names, useful alt text, and placing images near relevant text on a relevant page. For a contractor that means:

  • Rename files from IMG_4471.jpg to something like driveway-cleaning-winter-park-before.jpg
  • Write alt text that describes the photo plainly: "Concrete driveway with dark algae stains before pressure washing"
  • Put the pair on a project page that explains the problem, the work and the result
  • Keep file sizes reasonable so the page loads fast on a phone

A project page with a matched pair, three short paragraphs and a clear "get a quote" button does more for you than the same photos buried in a gallery. Our guide to contractor portfolio websites walks through what that page needs.

The two-minute crew checklist

Print this and put it in the truck.

On arrival, before unloading:

  • Lens wiped
  • Wide, mid and close-up before photos from standard spots
  • Close-ups of the specific problems

During the job:

  • One photo of any hidden work (underlayment, footings, prep)

Before leaving:

  • Site cleaned and tools out of frame
  • Wide, mid and close-up after photos from the same spots
  • Side-by-side check on the phone, reshoot if they don't line up
  • House numbers and plates noted for blurring

If you want the AI to do the sorting and page writing, DonePages takes the pair straight from your camera roll, straightens crooked shots, blurs house numbers and plates, and builds the page; see how it works. Either way, the matched pair is the part only you can do on site.

Common questions

Questions this guide answers

What is the best way to take before and after photos?+

Stand in exactly the same spot, at the same height and zoom, for both photos. Take the before photo before anything is moved, and the after photo once the site is cleaned up, ideally in similar light.

What time of day is best for exterior photos?+

Overcast days give the most even, accurate light. Early morning and late afternoon are also good. Avoid midday sun, which creates harsh shadows, and avoid shooting with the sun directly behind the house.

Should I edit before and after photos?+

Only to straighten, crop, fix overall brightness or blur private details. Never enhance the after photo more than the before, or remove defects that are still there. It's misleading and backfires in reviews.

How many photos should a contractor take per job?+

Five to eight is usually enough: a wide, mid and close-up before, optionally one during, and matching wide, mid and close-up afters. More near-identical shots just make the good ones harder to find.

Should I use the wide-angle lens on my phone?+

Usually no. Ultra-wide lenses bend straight lines, making rooflines and walls look curved. Use the main camera at 1x and step back instead.

Do I need the customer's permission to post photos of their house?+

It's good practice to ask, and essential for interior photos. Always remove house numbers, license plates, faces and personal items before posting anything online.

Sources and further reading

Original, practical guidance for service businesses.

DonePages Field Notes focuses on first-hand workflows, specific examples, and claims that can be checked. Articles are reviewed before publication and display their latest revision date.

Put the guide into practice

Turn one finished job into proof.

Create your DonePage